Sunday, September 2, 2007

EL SOL WINERIES AND THE BIG WHITE HOUSE

Hal Liske kept the crowds entertained at The Big White House Winery today. he was doing a brisk business as the crowds were buying his artistic bottles and asking him to sign them like the works of art they are. It took awhile to get to the tasting on Greenville Road as the Tesla Road gauntlet was packed with cars sloing down, bses pulling in and out and people walking on the road and the two or three sheriffs looking hopelessly outnumbered. I noticed a lot of young people at the tastings. It seems the face of wine fans is changing. It's funny seeing someone on a Harley, covered in tattoos discussing the subtlies of Pinot Noir.
Anyhow this article is short and sweet as Hal was so busy I can't expect to get a good interview while he's trying to make a buck so I respectfully bought my bottle, had the artist sign it and bounced out of there. http://www.elsolwine.com/

Inside the Big White House tasting room was John Marion the 3rd who was handing out thiefs full of his first blend. A thief is the vial or pipette which is used to remove small amounts of wine without disturbing the contents of the barrel. John is another young face and represents the future of wine in the tri-valley.http://www.bigwhitehouse.com/home.html







http://www.elsolwine.com/

BATTAION /LES CHENES/ CAMPO DI BOCCI

Campo Di Bocce is a slice of italy in the tri valley. The place was clearly the place to be as there was a band at the front door and people in the parking lot were converging like pilgrims towards the building. Inside the high cielings keep it cool while Americans struggle to learn the sport of Bocce. I headed towards the patio where the wine was being poured but I had to stop and smell the incredible Italian food. This column almost became a food column but I had a job to do. Next time, I will play bocce and eat some Pasta. Next time.
175 E. Vineyard Avenue, Livermore, California; Tel. 925.249.9800

Outside Battion Cellars was pouring their sparkling wines. A local Livermore politician was enjoying Dustins creations. Out of respect for their privacy, I won't say who it was but they did say, "This stuff is great!" Dustin gave me a big glass of Cuvee Rouge which is still my favorite. He says it tastes like strawberries. I think it tastes better than strawberries. Dustin and I joke how the idea of the road less traveled by has governed our lives. It has been in my mind since my mother read Robert Frosts poems to me. I always give Dustin credit for giving me a chance to discover something new in life besides writing. Do yourself a favor. Get a four-pack of his wines. Maybe one of each. Either way, his stuff is special. I have my Christmas shopping done. I hope my family doesn't read this. http://www.battaioncellars.com/ One more thing, Dustin has started a wineclub. Wine clubs are a great way to save money. When you know you're going to buy it anyway, why not save money and plan ahead? Go to bubbleclub@battaioncellars.com for


Across the court, Richard Dixon from Les Chenes Estate Vineyards was holding court. I asked him how he got in the business. He looked at me for a moment and in his eyes were literally thousands of stories. He paused and then spoke. "My family were in the business." He talked at length of how he had plenty of exposure as a child and finally came around as an adult to make his business the same as his parents. I reminded him that often the greatest people in their fields were children of people who did the same thing. Often the great football coaches were the children of coaches. Tightrope walkers, you name it. He did say while his parents were in the business, he has made huge changes and has fine tuned his business quite a bit. He is clearly knowledgeable about the business. He is soft spoken and with the music I couldn't hear half of what he said. I can't wait to interview him as it will surely fill many pages. http://www.leschenesvine.com/
http://www.livermore-california.com/campo-di-bocce/

LITTLE VALLEY WINERY

As I was leaving Elliston Winery, I took a peek inside the old building and met Sandi Bohner at the bar. She told me she was a co-owner of Little Valley Winery. I realized some wineries share tasting rooms. She took the time to tell me the history of the old Elliston building and that there were seances there. I believe it. The place has that feeling. Not creepy but that it has had so much history that it is inconceivable that there isn't some residual energy there. She sent me outside to sample the Tempranillo. It won the Best of Class at the California State Fair 2007. I sampled it and it had a rich, thick taste. It is a Spanish wine also famous in Portugal. It was rich. I had images of a smoky bar with flamenco dancers and gypsy guitarists. When I return to sample the Elliston products, I'll report on the Little Valley Wines also.
The website is just being put together but if you look carefully, there are spirits there.
http://www.littlevalleywinery.com/

ELLISTON VINEYARDS

First of all, this is a great place for a wedding. The main building, built in 1890 is beautiful. The surrounding grounds have a number of large trees.
At the tasting table, a 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon was quite refreshing. There was a crowd of people enjoying it. Next was the 1999 Merlot and it too had a great taste. The 2005 Pinot Grigio was a winner as people were clearly coming back for more. Elliston is a romantic place.
Tasting Room hours are Saturdays & Sundays from 11:00-5:00.Please call (925) 862-2377 for more information.
Sadly the "Captains Claret" was not to be tasted. I will be going back next week to take a serious look at this wine as it is their signature product and needs to be appreciated without crowds.
The VP of operations Mark Piche' was busy running cases of wine and taking time to be with his daughter Cierra who is probably the cutest little girl in the world. He does it all. I'll be back when the crowds are gone to give this place the time it deserves.
http://www.elliston.com/

WESTOVER VINEYARDS AND WINERY

Upon arrival at Westover, the smell of food fills the air. As we approach I am struck that there are a lot of folks in the tasting room. The room itself is filled with a multitude of varieties. Rack upon rack contain more varieties than I can count. I give up trying.
I ask to speak to the owner. William Smyth is a busy man. He darts back and forth not just enjoying the CEO position but doing it all. With a surgeons precision (he has a medical background) he commands the troops.
I finally catch him as he stops momentarily. "Have you seen the Ports?" zhe asks. William is the largest variety Port producer in the United States. Some twenty one varieties plus a port style Creme Sherry and a Muscat. The tasting table was COVERED in the slender Port bottles. The crowd was excited and there was a wait to get close. Not to be deterred, the crowd paid its dues. It was worth it. Liquid candy.

http://westoverwinery.com/


YEAR
TYPE of WINE
DESCRIPTION
AWARD
PRICE
WHITE PROGRAM



2003
Sauvignon Blanc
Central Coast – Grassy with Oak
13.95

2004
Sauvignon Blanc
Central Coast – Grassy with Oak
13.95

2003
Chardonnay
Livermore Valley, Shadow Hills Vineyards
14.50

2004
Chardonnay
Livermore Valley, Shadow Hills Vineyards
14.50

2003
Chardonnay
Estate Vineyard, San Francisco Bay – Oak/Citrus/Apple
Best of Show
17.95

2004
Chardonnay
Estate Vineyard, San Francisco Bay – Oak/Citrus/Apple
17.95

2005
Chardonnay
Estate Vineyard, San Francisco Bay – Oak/Citrus/Apple
17.95

2004
Chardonnay
Estate Vineyard, San Francisco Bay – Oak/Citrus/Apple
17.95

2005
Chardonnay
Central Coast
14.50

2004
White Riesling
San Luis Obispo County, Shandon Hills Vineyards – Slightly Sweet, Pear Flavors
13.95

2005
White Riesling
San Luis Obispo County, Shandon Hills Vineyards – Slightly Sweet, Pear Flavors
13.95

2004
Gewürztraminer
Central Coast, off-dry
15.95

RED PROGRAM

1999
Merlot
Russian River Valley, Lone Oak Vineyards, 100% Merlot
Bronze
21.00

1999
Merlot
Livermore Valley, Thatcher Bay Vineyards, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon
Bronze
19.95

2000
Merlot
Livermore Valley, Thatcher Bay Vineyards, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon
19.95

2001
Merlot
Livermore Valley, Thatcher Bay Vineyards, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon
19.95

2002
Merlot
Livermore Valley, Thatcher Bay Vineyards, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon
19.95

2003
Petite Verdot
Central Coast
Bronze
21.00

2001
Pinot Noir
Central Coast (Palomares and San Luis Obispo Grapes)
Bronze
21.00

2001
Syrah
Livermore Valley, Kurtzer Vineyards – Rhone Varietal with Spicy and Distinctive Smoky Notes
Silver
17.95

2002
Syrah
Livermore Valley, Kurtzer Vineyards – Rhone Varietal with Spicy and Distinctive Smoky Notes
17.95

2000
Zinfandel
Livermore Valley, Beyer’s Ranch, 15.5% Alcohol – Incredible Vanilla Flavor from New American Oak
19.95

2001
Zinfandel
Livermore Valley, Beyer’s Ranch, 15.5% Alcohol – Incredible Vanilla Flavor from New American Oak
19.95

2000
Cabernet Franc
Livermore Valley, Kurtzer Vineyards
Bronze
17.95

1999
Cabernet Sauvignon
Livermore Valley, Kalthoff Vineyards – Deep Berry Flavors
Silver
17.95

2000
Cabernet Sauvignon
Livermore Valley, Kalthoff Vineyards – Deep Berry Flavors
Bronze
17.95

2001
Cabernet Sauvignon
Livermore Valley, Kalthoff Vineyards – Deep Berry Flavors
17.95

2002
Cabernet Sauvignon
Livermore Valley, Kalthoff Vineyards – Deep Berry Flavors
17.95

2001
Je t’Aime ("I Love You") Meritage
Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot
17.95

2002
Je t’Aime ("I Love You") Meritage
Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot
17.95

2003
Je t’Aime ("I Love You") Meritage
Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot
17.95

DESSERT WINES

NV
Crème Sherry
Caramelized brown sugar taste; four years in oak; first sherry in the Valley
Bronze, Gold & Celebrity's Choice
20.00

NV
Muscat
Loaded with Muscat grape flavor and an incredible orange blossom bouquet
Gold
20.00

NV
Port
White
20.00

NV
Port
White, Chocolate
25.00

NV
Port
White, Vanilla
25.00

NV
Port
Zinfandel, Livermore Valley Tinto
20.00

NV
Port
Merlot, Livermore Valley Tinto
20.00

NV
Port
Cabernet Sauvignon, Livermore Valley Tinto
20.00

NV
Port
Petite Sirah, Napa Valley Tinto (Very Limited)
35.00

NV
Port
Chocolate, California Reserve Tinto
25.00

NV
Port
Vanilla, California Reserve Tinto
25.00

NV
Port
Cabernet Sauvignon Chocolate Tinto (Very Limited)
30.00

NV
Port
Cabernet Sauvignon Chocolate & Coffee Tinto
25.00
NV

Port
Reserve California Tawnie Tinto Aged Five Years
20.00

1998
Port
Tawny Late Bottle Vintage (LBV) Tinto Aged Eight Years
40.00

NV
Port
Tawnies 10 Year Old Reserve Limited Edition
30.00

NV
Port
Futures Tawnies 10 Year Old Reserve Limited Edition (12 each). To be bottled in 2006
500.00

CHAMPAGNE

NV
Champagne
Cuvee Close (Liqueur Dosage)
14.95

NV
Champagne
Grande Cuvee, Bone Dry
15.95

CHOUINARD VINEYARDS

What a day. Thanks to Dustin from Battaion Cellars www.battaioncellars.com for the best tip of the day. As the crowds took over the Tesla Rd. area, a much more quiet and intimate trip awaited my wife and I on the Palomares, Sunol loop.

The first winery was Chouinard Vineyards. http://www.chouinard.com/ Open year Round on Weekends from 12-5 (510) 582-9900

Damian Chouinard greeted us personally and showed us the upstairs tasting room. The walls are covered, and I mean covered with ribbions, medals and trophies. This guy knows how to make wine. He personally walks us out and down to the basement to see the new, stainless steel vats he has. We taste a Petite Sirah and it is breathtaking. Wonderful stuff. The grounds are intimate, perfect for a company picknick or family reunion. Along the creek is seating and a small stage. The grounds are in a steep canyon and it adds to the sense of peace and quiet.



http://www.chouinard.com/wines.html
Chouinard Winery Wine List Summer 2004
Red Wines
Chouinard Red Wine
Our latest red table wine is a blend of Zin and Cabernet Sauvignon with light strawberry flavors and subtle toast and oak flavors from aging in small American Oak barrels. Silver-L.A., Bronze-S.F. Bay, Bronze-State, Bronze-Eldorado.
$97.20/case $9.50/btl

2001 Zinfandel, Lodi, Old Vine
Year after year, this 100 year old vineyard from Mohr-Fry Ranches produces a ripe, concentrated wine with strawberry aromas and sweet jammy flavors.
$183.60/case $17.00/btl

2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, San Francisco Bay
Smoky-peppery, cherry flavors and aromas in this Estate Cab complimented with French oak and a hint of mint. Silver-S.F. Bay.
$194.40/case $18.00/btl

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles, Hog Canyon Vineyards
The finest Cab to date from this vineyard. Fruit reduction has concentrated the black cherry and pepper flavors. Ample tannins for aging.
$194.40/case $18.00/btl

2001 Petite Sirah, San Francisco Bay, Gustavino Vineyard
A well-balanced PS that combines fresh and intense fruit flavors with subtle mint and coffee complexities,
$186.30/case$17.25/btl

2003 Petite Sirah, Paso Robles
A long, warm growing season produced an extremely rich ruby-colored wine, with cherry-plum fruit flavors and a lingering finish.
$186.30/case$17.25/btl

2000 Alicante Bouschet, Lodi
A deep concentrated red wine with rich black cherry and pomegranate flavors and aromas nicely balanced with oak and char flavors from aging in small barrels.
$180.90/case$16.75/btl

2001 Alicante Bouschet, Lodi
Aged in American Oak tanks, the 2001 AB is an intense, inky and concentrated wine highlighted by wild blackberries. Best Varietal of Region, State Fair, 2 silver and 2 bronze medals, State, Eldorado, SF Bay and L.A. competitions.
$180.90/case$16.75/btl

White Wines
Chardonnay
2002 Dry Creek. One hundred percent barrel fermentation adds an oak dimension to this rich chard which is dominated by tropical fruit/pineapple flavors and aromas.
$178.20/case$16.50/btl

Chenin Blanc
2003 Monterey. Wonderful fresh pear aromas are the showcase of this fruity, crisp and well-balanced chenin blanc. A delightful summer-time wine, its off-dry style pairs well with cheeses. Last year's was a Best of Show and this one is every bit as good. It should do well in the competitions.
$110.70/case$10.25/btl

Gewurztraminer
2001 Monterey. Spicy and fruity, this wonderful food wine is made in a light off-dry style. Try it with Thai or other spicy Asian dishes or your favorite chicken recipes. Silver-L.A. and S F. Bay.
$108.00/case$10.00/btl

White Riesling
2003 Monterey. White peaches with a hint of apricot--a truly exceptional white. One sip of this fruity, crisp Riesling says Summertime.
$118.80/case$11.00/btl

Granny Smith Apple Wine
Hog Canyon Orchard. Made from 100% Granny Smith Apples, This off-dry table wine captures the crispness of this delicious green apple. Incredible with pork dishes, cheeses or turkey. Silver-L.A.
$97.20/case$9.00/btl

Late Harvest and Ice Wines
2003 Orange Muscat, Paso Robles
Joan’s Vineyard. This lightly sweet dessert wine has fresh muscat flavors nicely balanced with citrus and zest. The orange blossom aromas bring spring to mind.
$172.80/case$16.00/btl 375 ml

2001 Orange Muscat, Paso Robles, Joan’s Vineyard
Produced by using a modified ice wine method, the flavors and sugars of the grape have been concentrated and the resulting wine is a sweet essence of this delightful variety. Best of Show and Gold Medal, SF Bay. Wine Enthusiast rated 93 and Best Buy.
$375 ml $205.20/case $19.00 btl

Sparkling Wines
California Champagne
Brut (Charmat). The aroma is fresh pears with Toasty French oak flavors. This well-balanced wine has a tart acidity, wonderful green apple flavors and the lasting creamy mouth feel of a Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc blend. May be special-labeled in small or large quantities.
$156.60/cs,case $14.50/btl, split $4.75/btl

Fortified Wines
2001 Zinfandel Port, Old Vine, Lodi
Mohr-Fry Ranches. A ruby port with the ripe flavors of raspberry and plum and light French oak. The 100 year old zinfandel vineyard was harvested late to produce a port of extremely long finish and excellent aging capacity.
$205.20/case$19.00/btl 375 ml

The descriptions of our individual wines (see the red, white, champagne, and dessert wine pages) include pricing for individual bottles and cases of 12 bottles. We offer a 5% discount on purchases of 6 or more bottles, and a 10% discount on cases (members of our VIT Club get double discounts). Cases may be mixed. Please read our wine shipping policy for details.

Chouinard Winery Wine List Summer 2004
Red Wines
Chouinard Red Wine
Our latest red table wine is a blend of Zin and Cabernet Sauvignon with light strawberry flavors and subtle toast and oak flavors from aging in small American Oak barrels. Silver-L.A., Bronze-S.F. Bay, Bronze-State, Bronze-Eldorado.
$97.20/case $9.50/btl
2001 Zinfandel, Lodi, Old Vine
Year after year, this 100 year old vineyard from Mohr-Fry Ranches produces a ripe, concentrated wine with strawberry aromas and sweet jammy flavors.
$183.60/case $17.00/btl
2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, San Francisco Bay
Smoky-peppery, cherry flavors and aromas in this Estate Cab complimented with French oak and a hint of mint. Silver-S.F. Bay.
$194.40/case $18.00/btl
2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles, Hog Canyon Vineyards
The finest Cab to date from this vineyard. Fruit reduction has concentrated the black cherry and pepper flavors. Ample tannins for aging.
$194.40/case $18.00/btl
2001 Petite Sirah, San Francisco Bay, Gustavino Vineyard
A well-balanced PS that combines fresh and intense fruit flavors with subtle mint and coffee complexities,
$186.30/case$17.25/btl
2003 Petite Sirah, Paso Robles
A long, warm growing season produced an extremely rich ruby-colored wine, with cherry-plum fruit flavors and a lingering finish.
$186.30/case$17.25/btl
2000 Alicante Bouschet, Lodi
A deep concentrated red wine with rich black cherry and pomegranate flavors and aromas nicely balanced with oak and char flavors from aging in small barrels.
$180.90/case$16.75/btl
2001 Alicante Bouschet, Lodi
Aged in American Oak tanks, the 2001 AB is an intense, inky and concentrated wine highlighted by wild blackberries. Best Varietal of Region, State Fair, 2 silver and 2 bronze medals, State, Eldorado, SF Bay and L.A. competitions.
$180.90/case$16.75/btl
White Wines
Chardonnay
2002 Dry Creek. One hundred percent barrel fermentation adds an oak dimension to this rich chard which is dominated by tropical fruit/pineapple flavors and aromas.
$178.20/case$16.50/btl
Chenin Blanc
2003 Monterey. Wonderful fresh pear aromas are the showcase of this fruity, crisp and well-balanced chenin blanc. A delightful summer-time wine, its off-dry style pairs well with cheeses. Last year's was a Best of Show and this one is every bit as good. It should do well in the competitions.
$110.70/case$10.25/btl
Gewurztraminer
2001 Monterey. Spicy and fruity, this wonderful food wine is made in a light off-dry style. Try it with Thai or other spicy Asian dishes or your favorite chicken recipes. Silver-L.A. and S F. Bay.
$108.00/case$10.00/btl
White Riesling
2003 Monterey. White peaches with a hint of apricot--a truly exceptional white. One sip of this fruity, crisp Riesling says Summertime.
$118.80/case$11.00/btl
Granny Smith Apple Wine
Hog Canyon Orchard. Made from 100% Granny Smith Apples, This off-dry table wine captures the crispness of this delicious green apple. Incredible with pork dishes, cheeses or turkey. Silver-L.A.
$97.20/case$9.00/btl
Late Harvest and Ice Wines
2003 Orange Muscat, Paso Robles
Joan’s Vineyard. This lightly sweet dessert wine has fresh muscat flavors nicely balanced with citrus and zest. The orange blossom aromas bring spring to mind.
$172.80/case$16.00/btl 375 ml
2001 Orange Muscat, Paso Robles, Joan’s Vineyard
Produced by using a modified ice wine method, the flavors and sugars of the grape have been concentrated and the resulting wine is a sweet essence of this delightful variety. Best of Show and Gold Medal, SF Bay. Wine Enthusiast rated 93 and Best Buy.
$375 ml $205.20/case $19.00 btl
Sparkling Wines
California Champagne
Brut (Charmat). The aroma is fresh pears with Toasty French oak flavors. This well-balanced wine has a tart acidity, wonderful green apple flavors and the lasting creamy mouth feel of a Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc blend. May be special-labeled in small or large quantities.
$156.60/cs,case $14.50/btl, split $4.75/btl
Fortified Wines
2001 Zinfandel Port, Old Vine, Lodi
Mohr-Fry Ranches. A ruby port with the ripe flavors of raspberry and plum and light French oak. The 100 year old zinfandel vineyard was harvested late to produce a port of extremely long finish and excellent aging capacity.
$205.20/case$19.00/btl 375 ml
The descriptions of our individual wines (see the red, white, champagne, and dessert wine pages) include pricing for individual bottles and cases of 12 bottles. We offer a 5% discount on purchases of 6 or more bottles, and a 10% discount on cases (members of our VIT Club get double discounts). Cases may be mixed. Please read our wine shipping policy for details.


I didn't want to leave. The place is magical. While the big boys pack in the huge tour buses, this place had ample parking and the staff was friendly and helpful.
A close friend was there, Roger Kardinal who is a wonderful guitarist. He plays intimate concerts and is a heck of a nice guy http://www.rogerkardinal.com/

Sideways the Movie


Sideways the Movie

Last Updated (Monday, 29 November 1999 16:00) Written by Administrator Saturday, 01 September 2007 19:23
By now you know the movie "Sideways". Well. I had never seen it and the first time I did, I had my sweet mother in law who is a religous woman who never misses church. I thought it was a movie about wine.
Anyhow, by the time the tow truck driver scene came on she had thankfully decided to leave the room so we could pull it out of the dvd player.

All in all I love the film and it gave me an appreciation of the complexity of the wine industry and party animals too.
http://www.foxsearchlight.com/sideways/

El Sol Winery

El Sol Winery - Meet Hal Liske

Hal Liske used to put out fires. Now he's starting them. Hal was a firefighter in Hayward who retired and rather than staying in Hayward, he decided to come over the hill and make wine. Through sheer determination and hard work, he has created the El Sol Winery. I couldn't begin to tell you everything Hal told me because he is a wealth of wine stories and fermentation tales. He reminds me of a professor when he tells stories because he gets that gleam in his eye and his timing is like a poet. He is a heck of a nice guy and I like his product. He gave me a small glass of Port and discovered something I had never known. Liquid candy. This is great paired with a desert. I bought one of Hals 2002 "Contra Costa County Zinfandel". It was very enjoyable. Hals labels are beautiful. I then bought the El Sol "Livermore Cabernet".
Hal doesn't just stand there and pour. He answers each and every question completely.
http://www.elsolwine.com/ Hal Liske 925 606 1827

Welcome to Back Roads Wine!

Welcome to Back Roads Wine. Our focus is on fun! We will be interviewing wine companies across the state although our initial focus is on the Livermore area. This project began when I interviewed Dustin Battaion for a story in the Independent magazine. What started out as an interview progressed into a wine tasting. I never drank much wine and nearly considered not drinking any as I though it showed a lack of journalistic integrity. Dustin poured a small glass and I decided to be polite and try it. It was so refreshing and didn't have the oaky sharp taste of the red wine my mother and father drank. This was refreshing and sweet. I wondered why I only drank sparkling wines at New Years. Dustin mentioned the rest of the world drinks it year round. I am converted. No more New Years only toasts. I bet I can clean up buying in January. Anyhow, Here's Dustins site. http://www.battaioncellars.com/

I owe him a lot. It's as though I was in a Robert Frost poem and Dustin was at the fork in the road saying,"this way is a lot more interesting". I owe him. His passion is infectious. As far as his wines, I am madly in love with the "Cuvee Rouge" It tastes like Strawberries. Actually it tastes better than strawberries. It's beautiful stuff and it's going quick. If you were to buy a second I would get the "Vintage Reserve". It is wonderful and the perfect antidote to these hot days. Stock up now for the fall before it too is gone. My refrigerator is getting full and my wife made me swear I wouldn't buy any more. Dustin is pouring at Campo Di Bocce this weekend and I'll be there with my truck. She'll understand. Below is the story from the Independent. I want to thank Joan Seppala who ownes the Independent and who gave me the job and Janet Armantrout the editor who has helped me so much. Their website is http://www.independentnews.com/
A visit to a wine tasting typically involves cheese and of course a few sips of wine. Occasionally, one learns a few things about how the wine in question came to be.
Not so with Dustin Battaion and his brand new Battaion Cellars. Like the loud pop of the sparkling wines he produces, Dustin rattles off fascinating stories of monks in Europe discovering their wines exploding, shooting their corks after a long cold winter and the history of fermentation. What was to be a wine tasting quickly becomes a lesson in wine history, soil chemistry, and the mineral structure of the Livermore valley and nothing short of a journey through ones palette. While many people used the term “Champagne” today by law the European Union has decreed it the sole trademark of that area in France. All others must call their wines, “Sparkling wines”. Even so, amazingly wonderful things are being produced no matter what they are called.
A native of Fremont, he initially was a real estate investor but after buying a property with some established grape vines, he began to experiment. Historically, Livermore is not known for its sparkling wines however, Dustin is set to change that.
Normally sparkling wines use Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Meunier. In California, the Pinot Meunier is replaced with Pinot Blanc for the “fruit forwardness”. Dustin describes how, after a few years of sampling wines, he can often tell if they are from Livermore or not. Each regions special minerals impart distinct tastes to those wines. He says that truly expert vintners can blindfolded name wines by region. Dustin describes the clay and river Bottom in the Livermore valley and the effect it has on taste.

Not too valley hot and not too coastal cold, Livermore is a perfect place to grow grapes. The strong breeze keeps moisture from settling on the leaves producing powdery mildews. Often grapes closer to the coastal fog are attacked by this fungus but it is not as much of a problem here. Also by avoiding truly high temps, the plants are less stressed and produce an even higher quality product.

Often, wines have the same sharp bite or oak flavored aftertaste. Dustin focuses on what he calls a “fruit forward” taste. All four of the sparkling wines Battaion Cellars produces were refreshing and seemed as healthy to drink as fresh grape juice. Battaion’s method is what is called “Methode Champenoise”. Initial fermentation is done in a large, stainless steel vats. Next, the individual wines are blended and then bottled. This second fermentation requires the turning or “riddling” of each and every bottle to remove sediment. This is, after all a labor of love.

Rather than growing grapes like other vintners, Dustin buys the best grapes from numerous sources so he can focus completely on the science of making wine itself. The first wine sampled was”Cuvee Rouge” which came from a blend of Syrah and Grenache grapes. In a word, strawberries. Not overpowering, rather light and more complex. Second was the “Blanc de Noir” which was very refreshing and smooth. The Brut was also a winner. The fourth was special. The “Vintage Reserve” was from 1996. It was from a blending of the finest cuvees or initial wines from that year.

Dustin is quick to point out his winery wouldn’t exist without the network and support structure of other vintners in the Livermore. As the wines are blended, so are the best of the wineries. “By sourcing fruit”, Dustin explains, “I can focus on the end product”. While he buys the fruit, he has a hand in “leaf pulling” which can expose the fruit to sun. This can affect sugar levels in the grape. Sometimes, he tends to leave excess leaves to shade the fruit if that is necessary. Dustin has seen amazing things happen in vineyards where less overall grape vines are grown and with more spacing. He is a strong advocate for sustainable agriculture and organic methods. He speaks at length of organic methods and other natural additives which make for healthier vines from which the best grapes can be selected. He believes planting gardens in vineyards which attract beneficial insects is a better alternative that dealing with grape vines which have pests. Smaller rows and alternating rows also allows the vines to breathe and be less likely to encounter “hot spots” of low productivity. He truly loves discussing the intricacies of the business.

In an age of wine so focused on being inexpensive, taste is thrown out. To see wines so tasteful and refreshing is clearly the future. No longer is quantity and price what people will want but a wine that tastes good.
Dustin Battaion is set to make a name for himself and it appears he is well on his way. He is currently seeing his wines served at Uncle Yu’s at the vineyard at 39 S Livermore Avenue (between 1st St & Railroad Ave). He is also offering free delivery anywhere locally and offers private tastings. With the private tasting events, rest assured that it will be an education in wines. Those who want to increase their knowledge of wines could learn much from him. “Wines are a discovery industry” he tells us. By educating the client, they can better appreciate the time and effort he puts in to his end product. Educating the consumer is his gift. While currently housed in El Sol winery, within sixty days Battaion Cellars is looking to have a new public tasting room.
http://www.battaioncellars.com/ 925 245 9242 8626 Lupin Way, Livermore Ca 94550 M-F 10:00AM-5:00PM