Welcome to Back Roads Wine!

Welcome to Back Roads Wine. Our focus is on fun! We will be interviewing wine companies across the state although our initial focus is on the Livermore area. This project began when I interviewed Dustin Battaion for a story in the Independent magazine. What started out as an interview progressed into a wine tasting. I never drank much wine and nearly considered not drinking any as I though it showed a lack of journalistic integrity. Dustin poured a small glass and I decided to be polite and try it. It was so refreshing and didn't have the oaky sharp taste of the red wine my mother and father drank. This was refreshing and sweet. I wondered why I only drank sparkling wines at New Years. Dustin mentioned the rest of the world drinks it year round. I am converted. No more New Years only toasts. I bet I can clean up buying in January. Anyhow, Here's Dustins site. http://www.battaioncellars.com/

I owe him a lot. It's as though I was in a Robert Frost poem and Dustin was at the fork in the road saying,"this way is a lot more interesting". I owe him. His passion is infectious. As far as his wines, I am madly in love with the "Cuvee Rouge" It tastes like Strawberries. Actually it tastes better than strawberries. It's beautiful stuff and it's going quick. If you were to buy a second I would get the "Vintage Reserve". It is wonderful and the perfect antidote to these hot days. Stock up now for the fall before it too is gone. My refrigerator is getting full and my wife made me swear I wouldn't buy any more. Dustin is pouring at Campo Di Bocce this weekend and I'll be there with my truck. She'll understand. Below is the story from the Independent. I want to thank Joan Seppala who ownes the Independent and who gave me the job and Janet Armantrout the editor who has helped me so much. Their website is http://www.independentnews.com/
A visit to a wine tasting typically involves cheese and of course a few sips of wine. Occasionally, one learns a few things about how the wine in question came to be.
Not so with Dustin Battaion and his brand new Battaion Cellars. Like the loud pop of the sparkling wines he produces, Dustin rattles off fascinating stories of monks in Europe discovering their wines exploding, shooting their corks after a long cold winter and the history of fermentation. What was to be a wine tasting quickly becomes a lesson in wine history, soil chemistry, and the mineral structure of the Livermore valley and nothing short of a journey through ones palette. While many people used the term “Champagne” today by law the European Union has decreed it the sole trademark of that area in France. All others must call their wines, “Sparkling wines”. Even so, amazingly wonderful things are being produced no matter what they are called.
A native of Fremont, he initially was a real estate investor but after buying a property with some established grape vines, he began to experiment. Historically, Livermore is not known for its sparkling wines however, Dustin is set to change that.
Normally sparkling wines use Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Meunier. In California, the Pinot Meunier is replaced with Pinot Blanc for the “fruit forwardness”. Dustin describes how, after a few years of sampling wines, he can often tell if they are from Livermore or not. Each regions special minerals impart distinct tastes to those wines. He says that truly expert vintners can blindfolded name wines by region. Dustin describes the clay and river Bottom in the Livermore valley and the effect it has on taste.

Not too valley hot and not too coastal cold, Livermore is a perfect place to grow grapes. The strong breeze keeps moisture from settling on the leaves producing powdery mildews. Often grapes closer to the coastal fog are attacked by this fungus but it is not as much of a problem here. Also by avoiding truly high temps, the plants are less stressed and produce an even higher quality product.

Often, wines have the same sharp bite or oak flavored aftertaste. Dustin focuses on what he calls a “fruit forward” taste. All four of the sparkling wines Battaion Cellars produces were refreshing and seemed as healthy to drink as fresh grape juice. Battaion’s method is what is called “Methode Champenoise”. Initial fermentation is done in a large, stainless steel vats. Next, the individual wines are blended and then bottled. This second fermentation requires the turning or “riddling” of each and every bottle to remove sediment. This is, after all a labor of love.

Rather than growing grapes like other vintners, Dustin buys the best grapes from numerous sources so he can focus completely on the science of making wine itself. The first wine sampled was”Cuvee Rouge” which came from a blend of Syrah and Grenache grapes. In a word, strawberries. Not overpowering, rather light and more complex. Second was the “Blanc de Noir” which was very refreshing and smooth. The Brut was also a winner. The fourth was special. The “Vintage Reserve” was from 1996. It was from a blending of the finest cuvees or initial wines from that year.

Dustin is quick to point out his winery wouldn’t exist without the network and support structure of other vintners in the Livermore. As the wines are blended, so are the best of the wineries. “By sourcing fruit”, Dustin explains, “I can focus on the end product”. While he buys the fruit, he has a hand in “leaf pulling” which can expose the fruit to sun. This can affect sugar levels in the grape. Sometimes, he tends to leave excess leaves to shade the fruit if that is necessary. Dustin has seen amazing things happen in vineyards where less overall grape vines are grown and with more spacing. He is a strong advocate for sustainable agriculture and organic methods. He speaks at length of organic methods and other natural additives which make for healthier vines from which the best grapes can be selected. He believes planting gardens in vineyards which attract beneficial insects is a better alternative that dealing with grape vines which have pests. Smaller rows and alternating rows also allows the vines to breathe and be less likely to encounter “hot spots” of low productivity. He truly loves discussing the intricacies of the business.

In an age of wine so focused on being inexpensive, taste is thrown out. To see wines so tasteful and refreshing is clearly the future. No longer is quantity and price what people will want but a wine that tastes good.
Dustin Battaion is set to make a name for himself and it appears he is well on his way. He is currently seeing his wines served at Uncle Yu’s at the vineyard at 39 S Livermore Avenue (between 1st St & Railroad Ave). He is also offering free delivery anywhere locally and offers private tastings. With the private tasting events, rest assured that it will be an education in wines. Those who want to increase their knowledge of wines could learn much from him. “Wines are a discovery industry” he tells us. By educating the client, they can better appreciate the time and effort he puts in to his end product. Educating the consumer is his gift. While currently housed in El Sol winery, within sixty days Battaion Cellars is looking to have a new public tasting room.
http://www.battaioncellars.com/ 925 245 9242 8626 Lupin Way, Livermore Ca 94550 M-F 10:00AM-5:00PM